Delectable kebabs, scented biryani, and airy, ethereal desserts.
The historic city in northern India of Lucknow has consistently been a haven for gastronomes, with locals and visitors equally swearing by its superb cuisine.
Worldwide Recognition
Last month, UNESCO designated it as a City of Gastronomy within its Creative Cities Network – including it in a select group of international urban centers and sparking hopes that it will spotlight Lucknow's exceptional food. With this title, it enters a international community of more than four hundred cities across over 100 countries focused on promoting "artistic expression as a catalyst of sustainable urban development".
The accolade "demonstrates its deep-rooted food heritage and lively culinary scene," as stated by a representative from UNESCO's regional bureau for South Asia.
Lucknow is only the second Indian city – after Hyderabad, which was chosen in 2019 – to earn a spot in this highly sought-after list of seventy urban centers internationally.
An Urban Center with a Culinary Soul
The accolade for this venerable city comes as little surprise to its inhabitants or dedicated food lovers. Many agree with the sentiment that it is "a recognition that was delayed".
With the UNESCO recognition, this beloved, chaotic, and eclectic city – the administrative center of India's biggest state – is now in the global gaze for what has perennially characterized its soul: an profound love for food.
"'The day's menu, how should it be prepared' is a constant dialogue from waking up until night in many homes," notes a local cultural expert. "And you are often assessed by the standard of food that comes out of your kitchen."
An Imperial Food Tradition
The Nawabi City – as it's often referred to after its historic affluent Muslim rulers – is famed for its succulent kebabs and a unique take on biryani that were conceived, evolved, and taken to sublime levels in their royal kitchens.
These imperial kitchens were hubs of culinary innovations, fusing Iranian and local Indian styles to create what became known as the food of Awadh.
It was in that period that Lucknow's renowned kebabs were developed. Legend has it that the galouti kebab was invented to cater to an ageing nawab who had lost his teeth. His chefs ground the meat with raw papaya, kesar, and a blend of spices and made it so soft that it required no chewing.
But arguably the most significant contribution of the chefs of Awadh was the slow-cook Dum pukht technique, where food is cooked on a low, leisurely heat, with the container's cover securely sealed with a flour paste.
More Than Just Famous Dishes
Apart from the famous kebabs and biryani, the cooks also created a repertoire of dishes that included kormas (creamy curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a rich bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not just about kebabs and biryani – the region is also a dream for plant-based eaters.
The local traditionally vegetarian community's cuisine doesn't just highlights seasonal produce but also gives the city its highly curated Indian desserts, sweets, and distinctive street food, like chaat – spicy fried snacks.
Time-Tested Food Joints
Almost on many street corners, there are little shops and stalls – hidden treasures that are wildly loved by the locals.
In the heart of the city of Hazratganj, throngs of people start gathering from early morning at a renowned tea stall to get a piping hot cup of milky masala chai, served in kulhads, along with incredibly soft buns covered in freshly churned white butter.
For breakfast, one can make their way to a no-frills joint operating in the historic quarter of Aminabad. Nearly 150 years after it was founded, the place is still much sought-after for its hot kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Ensuring Legacy Continues
The city also boasts unique seasonal delights, such as makkhan malai, a airy dessert found in the winter. The method of making it is scientific and involved. The vendor whisks the milk and then leaves it out at night, allowing the dew to give it its amazing light consistency.
On cold mornings, street vendors can be seen in historic neighborhoods like Aminabad and Chowk. Many however note that their children are reluctant to learn the craft.
A celebrity chef from Lucknow has frequently stated that the city's immense food legacy puts it at the very pinnacle of the Indian street food experience. The real value from the UNESCO recognition, however, will occur only if Lucknow can now create awareness about its hidden eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow comes with a history – crafted by generational food businesses, from humble street carts to bustling restaurants, and secret family recipes.
The global recognition, it is hoped, will encourage more people worldwide to learn these narratives and experience the city to delight in the culinary delights of Lucknow.
